Black tieSep 29, 20263 min read

How to Wear a Bow Tie: A Men's Guide

By Oswin Hyde · Last updated 29 September 2026

The short answer: for black tie, wear a black bow tie, ideally a self-tie in silk or satin, with a dinner jacket and a white shirt. For weddings and parties you can wear colour, pattern or velvet. A pre-tied bow tie is quicker and stays neat all night; a self-tie looks more natural because it is never perfectly symmetrical.

Self-tie or pre-tied?

	Self-tie	Pre-tied
Look	Natural, slightly uneven knot	Neat and symmetrical
Skill needed	You learn to tie it once	None
Stays neat	Can loosen during the evening	Yes
Best for	Black tie purists	Weddings, parties, first-timers
Try	Black Silk Bow Tie	Bond Black Velvet, Black Retro Satin

Which fabric?

Silk or satin is the classic black tie choice and matches the satin lapels of a dinner jacket.
Velvet has a softer, richer look and suits winter and Christmas parties: try Bond Black or Bond Burgundy.
Woven and patterned bow ties (herringbone, paisley, dots) are less formal and suit weddings and lounge suits: Steel Blue Herringbone, Navy Paisley, Navy Pin Dot.

What to wear a bow tie with

Occasion	Bow tie	Shoes
Black tie	Black silk or satin, self-tie if you can	Patent Oxfords or velvet loafers
Evening wedding	Black, burgundy or dark green velvet or satin	Black patent or polished black leather
Daytime wedding	Patterned or coloured: paisley, herringbone, champagne	Black or dark brown Oxfords
Christmas party	Velvet or oversized satin in burgundy, green or black	Fraser Black velvet loafers
Lounge suit	Pattern or texture, never shiny	Oxfords, Derbies or loafers

How to choose the size

The bow should be roughly as wide as your face between the outer corners of your eyes, and should not extend past your collar points.
Our self-tie silk bow tie adjusts to fit collars from 16 to 20 inches; our pre-tied bow ties have an adjustable neck strap.
Oversized "retro" bow ties, like our Champagne and Green satin styles, are a deliberate statement for parties.

How to tie a bow tie

Drape it around your neck with one end about 4 cm longer than the other.
Cross the longer end over the shorter end, then bring it up through the loop at your neck.
Fold the shorter end into a bow shape and hold it horizontally across your collar.
Bring the longer end down over the front of the bow.
Fold the longer end into a bow shape and push it through the loop behind the front bow.
Tighten by pulling the folded ends, and adjust until both sides are roughly even.

Shirt, collar and accessories

Black tie calls for a white dress shirt, usually with a turndown collar and French cuffs for cufflinks.
The bow tie should sit just under the collar with no band showing at the back.
Do not wear a matching bow tie and pocket square. Pick a plain white pocket square for black tie.
Read our black tie dress code guide for the full outfit.

Frequently asked questions

What bow tie do you wear for black tie?

A black bow tie in silk or satin, ideally self-tie, with a dinner jacket and white shirt.

Is a pre-tied bow tie acceptable?

Yes, at almost every event. Purists prefer a self-tie for black tie because the knot looks more natural.

Can you wear a coloured bow tie to a wedding?

Yes, unless the invitation says black tie. Burgundy, green, navy, champagne and patterned bow ties all work.

Can you wear a bow tie without a jacket?

Yes, for a relaxed look at a party or summer wedding, but keep the shirt collar crisp.

Should a bow tie match the pocket square?

No. Choose a pocket square that complements the bow tie rather than matching it exactly.

How do you store a bow tie?

Untie a self-tie bow tie after wearing and lay it flat or roll it loosely so the fabric does not crease.

Shop the pieces in this guide: men's bow ties · cufflinks · velvet loafers · wedding shoes

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