Brogues, Derbies and Monk Straps Explained: Types and How to Wear Them

By Oswin Hyde · Last updated 28 September 2026

The short answer: brogues are shoes with decorative perforations (broguing) along the seams. A full brogue or wingtip has a W-shaped toe cap; a semi-brogue has a straight toe cap with a perforated medallion; a quarter brogue has perforations only along the toe cap. Derbies are lace-ups with open lacing, and monk straps close with one or two buckles instead of laces. All three sit between formal Oxfords and casual shoes.

What are brogues?

Brogueing began in Scotland and Ireland, where holes in outdoor shoes let water drain after walking through wet ground. By the 20th century the perforations had become decorative, and brogues moved from the countryside to town. Brogueing can appear on Oxfords, Derbies, monk straps and boots.

Are brogues in fashion?

Yes. Brogues are a permanent classic in British menswear. Today they are worn more with chinos, flannel and denim than with sharp business suits, and brown and tan brogues are the most versatile.

When to wear brogues

• Office: black or dark brown semi or quarter brogues with a suit.
• Smart-casual: brown or tan full brogues with chinos, tweed or flannel.
• Weekend: tan or suede brogues with dark jeans.
• Weddings: quarter or semi-brogues for daytime weddings; avoid them for black tie.

What are Derby shoes?

A Derby has open lacing: the eyelet panels are sewn on top of the vamp. That makes it easier to fit a higher instep and gives a slightly chunkier, more relaxed look than an Oxford. Plain black Derbies suit business wear; brown and tan Derbies suit smart-casual outfits. Try the Keyon Brown, Darren Bordo, the three-eyelet Edison Tan or the woven Heath Brown.

What are monk strap shoes?

Monk straps close with a buckled strap instead of laces. A single monk has one buckle, a double monk has two. Monk straps are a confident choice for the office and weddings, and suit suits and chinos alike. Wear the buckles fastened. Try the double monk Oscar Cognac, Hadley Brown or Kayden Tan, or the Shelby Brown monk brogue.

Oxford vs Derby vs brogue vs monk

For more on Oxfords, read our Oxford shoes guide. For which colour to choose, see our shoe colour guide.

Frequently asked questions

What are brogues?

Shoes decorated with rows of small perforations along the seams, originally to drain water. They come as full, semi, quarter and longwing brogues.

What is the difference between a wingtip and a brogue?

A wingtip is a full brogue: a brogue with a W-shaped toe cap that extends along the sides of the shoe.

Can you wear brogues with a suit?

Yes, especially black or dark brown semi or quarter brogues with business suits. Avoid them with black tie.

What is the difference between Oxford and Derby shoes?

Oxfords have closed lacing and look sleeker; Derbies have open lacing and are more relaxed and easier to fit on a high instep.

Should monk straps be buckled?

Yes. Wearing the buckles open is a trend, but fastened buckles look neater and keep the shoe secure.

Where do brogues come from?

Scotland and Ireland, where perforated outdoor shoes let water drain from wet ground.

Shop the pieces in this guide: brogues · Derby shoes · monk strap shoes · Oxford shoes