By Oswin Hyde · Last updated 28 September 2026
The short answer: black tie means a dinner suit (tuxedo) in black or midnight navy, a white dress shirt, a black bow tie, black patent or highly polished black Oxfords, black socks and simple cufflinks. To make it more interesting without breaking the dress code, change one thing: a velvet jacket or velvet loafers, a burgundy velvet bow tie, or distinctive cufflinks.
The black tie checklist
| Item | Classic choice | Try |
| Jacket | Black or midnight navy dinner jacket with satin or grosgrain lapels | — |
| Trousers | Matching, with a braid down the side; no belt | Braces such as Black Combination Braces |
| Shirt | White, turn-down or wing collar, double cuffs | — |
| Bow tie | Black silk or velvet | Black Silk Bow Tie, Bond Black Velvet |
| Shoes | Black patent Oxfords or velvet loafers | Duke Black Patent, Lennox Black velvet |
| Cufflinks | Black onyx-style, silver-tone | Zirc Onyx, Dimon Silver |
| Socks | Fine black socks | — |
| Pocket square | White silk or linen, presidential fold | White silk |
Black tie shoes
Black patent Oxfords are the classic choice: plain-toe, with a mirror shine. Try the Duke or Bow Black Patent (also in wide fit). Velvet loafers, such as the Lennox or Fraser, are the stylish alternative for dinners and parties. Highly polished plain black Oxfords are acceptable if you don't own patent. Avoid brogues and brown shoes.
Bow ties: self-tie or pre-tied?
A self-tie bow tie looks more natural and is the traditional choice; the Black Silk Bow Tie is a self-tie in black silk. A pre-tied bow tie is quicker and always neat; the Bond Black Velvet Bow Tie is pre-tied with an adjustable strap and an oversized shape. Bow ties should be black for strict black tie; burgundy velvet, like the Bond Burgundy, works where the invitation is relaxed.
Braces, not a belt
Dinner suit trousers are traditionally worn with braces and no belt, so the waist stays clean. Black braces are classic. See our braces.
How to make black tie more interesting
Black tie has strict rules, so change one element and keep the rest classic:
- Velvet: velvet loafers or a velvet jacket in midnight blue, bottle green or burgundy.
- Bow tie: burgundy or textured velvet instead of plain black silk.
- Cufflinks: a distinctive pair, such as the Fitz Emerald.
- Midnight navy: a navy dinner suit looks richer than black under artificial light.
Black tie vs black tie optional vs cocktail
| Dress code | What to wear |
| Black tie | Dinner suit, bow tie, patent or polished black shoes |
| Black tie optional | Dinner suit preferred; a dark suit with a tie is acceptable |
| Cocktail | Dark suit and tie; velvet loafers or polished Oxfords |
| White tie | Tailcoat and white bow tie: more formal than black tie |
For weddings, see our wedding shoes guide.
Frequently asked questions
What shoes do you wear with black tie?
Black patent Oxfords or velvet loafers. Highly polished plain black Oxfords are acceptable.
Can you wear a belt with a tuxedo?
Traditionally no: dinner suit trousers are worn with braces or side adjusters.
What colour bow tie for black tie?
Black, in silk or velvet. Burgundy or midnight velvet works for relaxed events.
Can you wear velvet loafers to black tie?
Yes. Velvet loafers are a classic evening alternative to patent Oxfords.
How do I make black tie less boring?
Change one element, such as velvet loafers, a velvet bow tie, a midnight navy suit or distinctive cufflinks, and keep the rest classic.
Shop the pieces in this guide: bow ties · velvet loafers · formal shoes · braces · cufflinks
Read more

The simple rules for matching men's accessories: leathers, metals, tie and pocket square, cufflinks, socks and wallet.

The simple rules for matching men's accessories: leathers, metals, tie and pocket square, cufflinks, socks and wallet.


















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